VHR HOW TO AND TIPS

Dining
Parents travelling with kids will have concerns over how their children will join them at a dining table or be fed safely, particularly with babies and toddlers.

• Provide a high chair or at least a booster seat.  Toys’R’Us do a great one that has a blow up insert to allow the height to be adjusted – just do a search for ‘booster seat’ and there’s lot’s of choice.
• Supply child-proof plates – those with suction cups on the bottom make it better for Mom and for your cleaners.
• A good blender is essential – there are specialized blenders for liquidizing baby meals which could come in handy for your very young guests.

Sleeping
Being on vacation means relaxing and having a great night’s sleep.  Parents who use baby monitors will usually bring their own because they are light and easy to pack, so that’s probably not an expense you need to make if preparing for small guests.  However giving thought to how parents will cope in your house with young children can be helpful to them.  Just installing louvred blinds at windows so the sun doesn’t stream in and wake a sleeping child, can make a huge difference to how a holiday is enjoyed.

• Provide a  Pack’n’Play crib
• Install plugin motion sensor night lights so children can find their way to the bathroom
• If there is no air conditioning, make sure a fan is available for guests to use on hot nights.

- http://www.vacationhomerentals.com/info/owner/managing-your-vacation-rental/family-friendly-strategies.html

Screens, Fans and BBQ's - Essentials for SUMMER Guest SATISFACTIION

Summer guests have basic requirements just as our ski season friends - but instead of snow shovels, blankets and space heaters, they are looking for screens, fans and BBQ's. The secret behind developing a good return guest clientelle is to "sweat the small stuff". It is essential to try to make sure your property is equipped with everything a guest might need while on vacation. In the summer, there is nothing worse than having to keep your windows and doors closed because the mosquitos are invading! Likewise, just because air conditioning is a rare commodity in Tahoe does not mean that it doesn't get hot. Making sure your property is equipped with a few fans will ensure that your guests have a more pleasant vacation. There are many BBQ's out there that have seen better days - past their "use by" date! Please if you are the owner of one of these relics - Please replace it !! It will not only provide a better guest experience, but will provide a safer solution at your home.

Twice each year our staff does inventory at the various homes we manage. We check to ensure that mattress pads and blankets are still on the beds, there is an ample supply of glassware and cookware, as well as other items such as small appliances. While our guests tend to be very responsible, breakage sometimes occurs and non-stick surfaces get scratched. Teflon items are not meant to last forever and will need to occassionally be replaced.

Having a fully stocked, functional kitchen goes a long way in ensuring guest satisfaction. While your house may sleep 6 persons - it is not practical to only have 6 plates and glasses. I don't know too many people who would want to wash dishes each time they planned to have a meal. It is not practical. In this case - more is better!

Replacement of tired/worn items - especially comforters and pillows make a big difference in a guest stay. We have to think along the lines of a hotel experience. What would you think if the next Marriott you stayed in had 8 year old comforters and pillows on their beds? Iit really is no different for a vacation rental - we are held to the overall standards of the lodging industry. Please consider the age of your bedding. If you need for us to coordinate replacement of these items, we are happy to do so.

BBQ Drip Pans and Cigarette Butt Containers

TKR requires BBQ drip pans on all BBQ's that reside on wooden decks. We also require cigarette butt containers to be placed outside on all decks. Due to the increased fire danger in the Lake Tahoe region, we feel that the above steps are necessary in helping to ensure the safety of your property and neighborhood. We will not be calling for authorization of this minimal expense. If your property already has these safety features in place, please disregard this message.

Guest Satisfaction

Lodging Hospitality, an industry trade journal, just published their results of a survey aimed at helping operators understand what guests want in bedding, lighting, communications, bathrooms, and food-related amenities. The survey of 5,000 frequent travelers also tried to determine how guest would respond when their needs are not being met. Some of the not surprising findings are: More guests favor king size beds rather than queen size. Double beds came in a distant third place. The vast majority wanted firm beds. The majority likes to have bars of soaps rather than soap dispensers. When asked what they would do if the bed failed to meet their expectations, the responses ranged from never visiting the establishment again to an equally dangerous outcome of telling friends and family not
to patronize the property. Others indicated that they would complain strongly to management both
verbally and via guest comment cards, along with never returning to that hotel. While the majority said they would not be willing to pay for high-speed Internet access, others indicated that computer hookups, such as dataports, play a large part in to today’s travel picture.
Sources:
Lodging Hospitality and Hemispheres Magazine

Designer Tricks

In small rooms choose a piece of furniture that will create a focal point. A special bed or a beautiful armoire will look better than a room full of mediocre items. Frequently people will redecorate a room and then move some of the older pieces of furniture to another room rather than discard them. Keep only what is beautiful, stylish, and useful. Be discriminating.
Find a second hand furniture store or someone to take the older items.
Select fabrics with hues that blend rather than match. You can mix florals and checks together when the scale and colors are compatible. If you decide to mix patterns, try for a mixture of prints and patterns rather than just a floral look and be sure to include a solid texture. It gives the eye a place to rest. When choosing a palette, include rich neutrals and muted jewel tones (olive, sage, gold, cream, wine).

Source: Calico Corners

Finding the Right Fabric

Homeowners often wish to display things that they find personally attractive, whether it be a special collection of art pieces or a wall of vacation photographs. Here are some tips onhow to show off your favorite articles with style. Selecting the right finishing touches can require a sharp eye and some trial and error. Even the casual doesn’t just happen. It requires as much planning as a more formal décor. Look at the overall room or even better the condominium or home as a whole. Determine what it needs most, color, texture, or interest. If you already have accessories, group them according to color or theme. Discard items that are incompatible with the central decorating scheme. Small items can get lost (literally) if scattered around a room. Items that are considered special or irreplaceable should be removed from a vacation rental. It is impossible for the Housekeepers to account for or dust every item between guests so be realistic and keep small items to an absolute minimum. Sometimes removing things makes for the best look. Area rugs offer another option to pull a room together. They come in a variety of sizes, shapes, and designs whether they are custom made or bought off the rack.

Stylishly matted and framed even modestly priced artwork can enhance the overall décor of a room. Mirrors have always enjoyed a popular place in decorating schemes. A nicely framed mirror in a fashionable frame can create a nice focal point on a wall. Personal photographs should be limited to a very few special ones that are placed in stylish frames and not displayed in a prominent place where a piece of artwork would look better.

Finding the right accessories takes time and energy. Interior decorators have ideas and resources. Don’t be afraid to seek their assistance. A room that is nicely accessorized is a more inviting to guests.
 

-Articles provided by Resort Rating Services, Inc.

Helpful Tips

Welcome to our "tips" page dedicated to providing useful information ranging from housekeeping to safety. We hope that you will find the articles useful. This edition features tips on stripping wallpaper, recaulking tubs and showers, clogged drains, mildew in your bathroom, summer heat and environmentally conscious cleaning. If you have a helpful hint that you would like to share, please e-mail it to lisa@tahoekeysresort.com

Stripping Wallpaper

Wallpaper removal is fairly easy, but quite messy. There are two ways to remove it, aside from ripping it off the walls with your bare hands. Don't laugh... I have seen wallpaper that would fall from the walls with a sideways glance. However, if yours was that easy, you would be practicing an icy stare instead of e-mailing me!

All kidding aside (never), if you can get under a corner of the paper, try to tear it off dry. If it works, it will save you loads of work. In some cases, everything but a small amount of paste residue will remain. You can clean it off with some wallpaper stripper and a sponge. In other cases, the facing (on vinyl papers, primarily) will come off and leave a paper backing stuck on the wall. This backing will be easy to get off with method 2.

METHOD 1: The first method is using a wallpaper steamer, a piece of equipment that can be rented. It sends steam through a hose to a flat metal plate similar to an iron. Pressing this plate on the wall forces steam into the wallpaper, which softens the paper and paste. This allows you to strip the paper with a wide putty knife.

This method harkens to the days of plaster walls, still in abundance in older homes but a relative rarity in the last twenty or thirty years. Unfortunately, aggressive steaming can damage paper-faced wallboards, especially if the wallboard wasn't fully sealed prior to wallpapering. In new construction, walls that are going to be papered are often not primed with paint, but just coated with sizing. The sizing seals enough to allow the wallpaper to stick, but offers little protection to the walls otherwise. This leads us to Method 2...

METHOD 2: The second method involves the use of a chemical agent that is added to hot water. This chemical is an enzyme that soaks into the paper and dissolves the paste. It takes a little longer than the steamer, but does a fine job and is less damaging to the walls. The trick is to allow the chemical to do its work, and not to rush into scraping too soon. The paper should be kept wet with the chemical until the paper is loose enough to scrape off EASILY.

The wallpaper stripper is applied with a sprayer, either a hand-held trigger spray type for very small jobs or a pump-type pressurized garden sprayer for entire rooms. Cover the floors with plastic tarps under newspapers to absorb the excess spray and collect the old paper. As waste accumulates, throw away a few layers of newspaper and put additional paper on the tarps.

If the original paper is a non-porous vinyl, you may have to rip the vinyl face from the wall before using either removal method, because neither the steam nor the chemical stripper will easily penetrate the vinyl.

If the vinyl face in not easily pulled off, all is not lost! You can make small perforations in the vinyl to allow the steam or chemical to pass through. There are two ways to accomplish this neatly and with minimal wall damage. The first is to use a commercial tool called a Paper Tiger. Simply rolling the Paper Tiger over the wall causes a small roller with pin-like protrusions to perforate the surface of the paper, leaving the wall underneath undamaged.

A lower tech alternative is to use a moderately stiff wire brush. Simply drag the brush across the surface of the wallpaper to scratch it. Just don't get too carried away, or the marks will pass through to the wall below, forcing you to do additional wall repair later.

After the paper is removed, you can remove small amounts of residual paste using hot water and just about any wall washing detergent, or you can use the wallpaper stripping chemical as a final wash. If there is lots of paste left, though, you may need to respray the walls with the chemical stripper to soften it. Then, use a scraper or putty knife to remove the residual glue, followed by a final rinse with a sponge dipped in the stripper.

If you are going to paper again, your prep is almost done. Just give the walls a light sanding to remove any roughness and clean up all the dust before beginning the wallpapering process.

If you are going to paint, prime the walls with one coat of a sealing/stain killing oil-based primer. You may have to sand again after this prime coat. The roughness is more paste being lifted by the primer. If you don't sand it off and then coat with a latex paint, it will be difficult or impossible for you to remove the roughness later!

After the primer is fully dry, you can sand it , clean up all the dust, and then put one or two coats of any paint your heart desires

-Naturalhandyman.com

Recaulking Tubs and Showers

In a shower or tub enclosure, caulk is used to keep water from creeping up under or around the tiles at joints... between tile and the tub or shower pan, or on joints where walls meet. I have seen situations where the two or three bottom rows of tiles were loosened by water which crept up under the tiles from the bottom! The reason the caulk works is because it is glue-like and flexible... characteristics necessary to seal a joint between dissimilar materials, or a joint that has movement.

The Winning Strategy: Remove the old caulk, clean the surface meticulously and THEN apply the new caulk.

The best way to keep your caulk in tip top shape is to apply it properly in the first place. So, the first step in replacing caulk is getting all the old caulk off. Though you can do a patch job that will last for a brief period of time, a complete job gives the long lasting results.

Pre-clean the work area...

This is a vital step to a successful job. By pre-cleaning the area with a good combination bathroom surface cleaner / soap scum remover before removing the caulk, you will introduce less moisture around the tiles than you would if you cleaned afterwards. After the old caulk is off, the final cleaning will be done with alcohol... more on this later.

Remove the old caulk...

Try to determine the kind of caulk... it will help you to plan the removal! Get a sharp knife and try to cut it. If it is very rubbery and somewhat soft, it is most likely a pure silicone caulk. If it seems to be very hard, then it is probably one of the latex caulks, such as Polyseamseal, Phenoseal, or one of the hardware store brands.

If you have a silicone caulk, it can be removed with a sharp, single-edged razor in a razor blade holder. Be very careful to keep the razor angled low so that you don't scratch the tub or shower pan, especially if it is a plastic or fiberglass. A utility knife can also be used to cut the caulk from between the tiles and the tub if the razor can't quite get it out, especially in deeper pockets and corners! Sometimes, if you have a porcelain tub, little black lines will appear on the porcelain as you scrape off the caulk, even though you know you didn't scratch the surface. These marks usually come off with the alcohol wipe. If they don't, use a little scouring powder or Soft Scrub... with a minimum of water.

If you are struggling with a latex caulk, a heat gun can be a helpful tool. The heated air will soften the caulk to ease removal. Set at a low temperature (under 300°, or your guns lowest setting), to protect the surfaces and your hands. Keep the heat gun moving to prevent overheating of any area... you want to heat and soften the caulk, not cremate it! Work your way around the enclosure, softening the caulk first and then using your tool to remove it. This strategy is unnecessary for silicone caulks because they are softer and easier to remove.

Once the caulk is scraped off, the area should be thoroughly cleaned. Wipe the joint down with denatured alcohol and allow it to dry for a few minutes. The alcohol does a good job of cleaning off any remaining soap scum, grease, or other nasties and yucks that may have crept under loose caulk or you may have missed during precleaning. Use a vacuum to suck out any bits of pieces of caulk that may be lurking under the edge of the tile.

Unfortunately, the alcohol will not kill mildew. If the area was heavily mildewed, you may want to spray it with a concentrated mildew killer after the alcohol wipe. The alcohol cuts the soap scum better than most anything, and gives the mildew killer a fighting chance to knock out any residual mildew. Let it sit for a few minutes, then wipe off any residue with a sponge, rinsing frequently in hot, clear water (no soap). Then, you can use your heat gun to blow dry the area to be caulked if you are in a hurry, or just wait overnight and proceed tomorrow!

It is always a judgment call whether or not to wait overnight before recaulking the enclosure. If you are replacing the caulk because of leakage, or if it was obviously falling off, you would be wise to put a small fan or heater in the enclosure and let it dry out at least overnight.

If you are replacing the caulk for cosmetic reasons... the main one being mildew... you may be able to recaulk immediately, as long as you are using a latex caulk, and in your judgment there was no leaking into the wall. Latex caulks will still adhere if surface is slightly moist. If you are using silicone, then there is no debate... the enclosure must be dry as a bone or the caulk will fail!.

If you have a recurring mildew problem... reappearance in a few months or less... let the enclosure dry more thoroughly next time you caulk, as long as a week in some cases.

Time to choose the new caulk...

If you are working with a completely ceramic enclosure, you can use either the silicone or latex caulks. If you have a fiberglass tub with ceramic tile walls, or a completely fiberglass sectional enclosure with caulked joints, you may be better off using a 100% silicone product.

There is a product from a company called Phenoseal that is advertised as mildew proof. Skeptic that I am, I tried the product in my own home before inflicting it on customers. The stuff deserves high praise. It does indeed stay mildew-free longer than any product I have ever used, and under the most adverse conditions... my kids' bathroom!! I have used it successfully in all types of enclosures, though you will have to use a heat gun to remove it in a fiberglass enclosure, as mentioned earlier.

Because it is relatively soft, pure silicone caulk is the choice of manufacturers of fiberglass enclosures. It is easy to work with and has good smoothing qualities. However, the silicone leaves a slimy residue on your hands that will not wash off with anything I've tried every solvent, soap, and hand cleaner, and none work! Even the GE Silicon web site is silent on this!! The only cure for the silicone greasies is that tried and true cure of many of life's torments... time.

I am not a real fan of the so-called siliconized caulks. These are latex caulks with a small amount of silicone processed into them. I just don't see any advantage to them, advertising notwithstanding. Since silicone is a product designed so things don't stick to it, how can mixing silicone and latex improve the product, other than give the manufacturer a new advertising angle? So, I do not routinely use these chameleon-like products.

Applying the new caulk...

This is the part of the project that separates the mice from the rats. It's a sad truth that, no matter what pains you go through to prep the enclosure, carefully pick the proper caulk, terminate the mildew... all anyone is going to notice is your artistic application of the caulk!!

Having a caulk job look professional is a tall order, mostly because there are few professionals at caulking. In new tile installations, joints that should be caulked are grouted, only because it is a pain to leave the horizontal and vertical seams grout-free for caulking.

Caulking is more of an art than a craft, a mixture of finesse and experience. And every job turns out a little different... some better than others. Even the type and texture of the tile can affect the quality of the job. And using white caulk with colored grout is about as frustrating as you can get!

However, don't loose heart! I can give you a few guidelines that may help you do the best possible job:.

If you don't plan on making caulking a profession, you don't need to use a caulking gun to do your enclosure. The small, plastic tubes of caulk are usually adequate to do an entire enclosure vertical and horizontal seams, along the shower doors, and along the outside floor and walls, if necessary! Though I have become quite skilled with the guns, the fact is that the tube is more easily controlled by the novice and pro alike!! I use the gun myself because I use so much caulk that the large capacity gun cartridges are more economical! 
Don't cut too large an opening in the end of the tube... the larger the opening, the more likely you are to overcaulk the joint. The trick to neat caulking lies in not applying too much caulk to the joint. When you smooth the joint, any excess caulk tends to slop all over the place. It's not the end of the world, just makes getting a neat job all the more difficult. You can always add a little more caulk in any spots that need a touch more. 
Forget about the ice cubes and special "smoothing" devices that look like gynecological instruments! Raise up your hands and look at them... you are seeing ten custom made tools for smoothing caulk! The technique I use is simple:

For latex caulk, have a small bucket with a damp sponge nearby. The sponge is to wipe off your fingers as they accumulate caulk, and also to keep your finger "tools" moistened so they slide on the caulk without sticking to it. 
For pure silicone caulk, have a roll of paper towels handy as well as a damp sponge. With the silicone, the towels are to wipe off any caulk that may get on your hands (remember, the silicone is not water-washable), and the sponge is to moisten your clean fingers for smoothing, as with the latex caulk. 
Do both vertical seams in a tiled enclosure first, then the back wall, then both sides. The outside of the enclosure is done last. On a sectional fiberglass enclosure, the pattern is the same. 
Apply a bead, no more than ¼ inch wide right into one of the joints. Remember... not too thick... you are going to have to get the feel of this. Use a finger, moisten it with the damp sponge, and glide it along the joint, pressing the caulk evenly into the joint . If you have applied the right amount of caulk, the gap between the end of your finger and the joint will smooth the caulk to a neat, even appearance. 
If you overapplied the caulk, this is where things get messy! You will have to try to remove the overage by using your finger and the sponge to wipe it off. If you really overdid it, you may want to completely wipe the caulk out of the joint and try again, rather than fudge the job! Needless to say, the latex will clean up better than the silicone... another good reason to not overapply the caulk. 
As you finish a section, if there are any spots that seem to have too little caulk, add a little and smooth it in with a finger. Work quickly, because you only have a couple of minutes before the caulk begins to "skin" over!! 
Plan on doing the whole job at once. Take the phone off the hook, and put the dog outside. If you stop mid-job, the start-stop seam may not adhere well... a entry point for water and mildew growth! 
Let the caulk dry at least overnight and, for God's sake, take a shower!!

-Naturalhandyman.com

Clogged Drains

Is your drain starting to run rather slow? Or is it blocked all together? Well a very simple environmentally friendly way of dealing with blocked drains or plugholes is as follows.

Pack the drain or plug hole with as much baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) as possible. Boil up a pint of vinegar. VERY, VERY CAREFULLY pour the vinegar down the drain, keeping your face well out of the way. There will be a very violent reaction. Let it all sit there for 2 hours and then flush through.

By their very nature bathrooms are prone to mildew as the air often becomes damp. Places where mildew will develop is on the grout between your tiles and in and around your shower.

Mildew in Your Bathroom

Use an old toothbrush to scrub the mildew from the grout between your tiles. For more stubborn stains cover them with a paste of scouring powder that contains bleach, leave for a few hours, scrub and rinse clean. There are also many commercial products on the market that will kill mildew.

After you use the shower leave the door or curtain open. Wipe down the walls to dry them. Once they are dry close the shower door or curtain to allow that to dry also.

To clean a fiberglass shower cubicle dip a damp sponge into some Baking Soda (Bicarbonate of Soda) and wipe over the surfaces. Rinse and dry.

If you have developed mildew on your shower curtain. Simply soak it in the bath in a solution of 1 part domestic bleach to 4 parts water. Rinse well, then if the material allows it, machine wash.

You can also clean mildew, by wiping down with vinegar-soaked cloth.

© Copyright 2002 Tipking.com

Bust the Dust in an Earth Friendly Way

Feel like being a little more environmentally conscious this spring? Here are some earth-friendly cleaning recipes to help:

• All Purpose Cleaner: 4 tablespoons baking soda 1 quart warm water -Dissolve baking soda in the warm water. Apply with a sponge or spray with a spray bottle. Use to clean and deodorize all kitchen and bathroom surfaces. Rinse with clear water. 
   
• Drain Cleaner: 1 cup baking soda 1 cup white vinegar Boiling water -Pour baking soda down the drain. Add white vinegar and cover the drain if possible. Let stand for 5 minutes, then pour a pot of hot water down the drain. The vinegar and baking soda will break down fatty acids into soap and glycerin, and wash the clog down the drain. CAUTION: Don't use this method if you have used a commercial drain opener that may still be present in the drain. 
   
• Drain Opener: Use a plunger or a flexible metal snake to loosen clogged drains. Do not use in the presence of harsh or toxic chemicals. 
   
• Lime and Mineral Deposit Remover: Soak cleaning cloths in vinegar then apply the cloths to the lime deposits around faucets. Leave the cloths there for approximately one hour. The deposits will soften and can be wiped easily. 
   
• Oven Cleaner: Baking soda and very fine steel wool -Sprinkle water on oven surface. Apply baking soda and rub using a very fine steel wool. Wipe off with a damp sponge. Rinse well and dry. 
   
• Toilet Bowl Cleaner: Sprinkle baking soda into the bowl, then pour some vinegar in and scour with a toilet brush. This combination cleans and deodorizes. 
   
• Furniture Polish: 3 cups olive oil 1 cup vinegar Mix well. Use a clean, soft cloth to apply to furniture. Disinfectant 1 cup borax 1 gallon hot water CAUTION: Borax is a toxic ingredient. Handle it with care and store safely.

     - allabouthome.com

Summer Heat

One of the most effective means to minimize complaints from guests during the hot summer months of July and August is to make sure that your home, condo or cabin has an ample supply of fans as well as window screens. Because most guests are used to the luxury of air conditioning when they travel, walking into a stuffy house in mid August often sends them reaching for the phone. "I can't stay here - its much too hot!" Often, the complaints are so severe (and with due cause) that the guests must be relocated to a unit with ventilation provided by window screens or one with multiple fans. If you would like to make arrangements for either of these items, please give us a call in Property Management.